More About Wilf

By Trevor Bennett· Monday, June 13, 2011

This relationship all started with a few simple words “could I have a drink of water please”
 Wilf had been out walking in the mountains above Orebic the main tourist town on the Peljesac Penninsula jutting out into the Adriatic Sea some 40km north of Dubrovnik,  Then Yugoslavia, now Croatia.
The light had been fading fast and he decided to “take a short cut” down the hillside through the bracken rather than follow the zigzag path back down to the road.
The going was tough, it was so dense, he was just thinking about making his way back up to the track instead of struggling on.The next thing he remembers is falling, not stumbling, but falling through the air, then feeling around on the ground for his glasses and backpack which had been ripped off by the pine trees and shrubs that he had landed in probably saving his life or at least from serious injury.
With limited vision now he found neither so had a look around to get his bearings, he didn't know how long he had been unconscious but it was now pitch black, the kind of darkness you get when you camp on the moors or deep in a forest where there is no light pollution for nearby towns, at least you think its dark until the moon or the stars slowley take effect and help you come to terms with it.
What to do? Did he carry on down and risk another fall or traverse sideways in the hope he would come to the path, with feeling around he knew his arms were ok, his legs seemed fine too, but boy did he hurt, probably been like one of those silver balls in a Pinball machine bouncing from branch to branch until he fell between the flippers at the bottom to safety.
Sideways it was, struggling for a hundred meters perhaps until he came back to the path, he was exhausted, not just tired he was spent.
He needed to make a decision, did he make camp for the night under a bush and risk the chance to become prey to the snakes or worst still Wild Pigs that were nocternal feeders on the mountain range or walk down, walk down, it didn't matter how long it took he could stop and rest.
Rounding a corner he saw a light, about a kilometer away but it was a sign that somebody must be there, if you see a light this far up the mountains it is a sign of life.
It must of taken an hour to reach the light, he doesn't know excactly, when he checked his wrist his watch was gone too, but he got there.
Climbing the steps he reached the source of the light, an oil lamp above a sliding door, a dog growled to his left behind a gate, he was glad of the gate, by the sound of the growl this wasn't a small dog.
He could hear voices inside so he tapped on the door, it went quiet, then the voices started again, he tapped again, this time an internal door opened and poured more light into the area he was standing, two adults appeared, male and female.
“Could I have a drink of water please” said Wilf.
They could see he was in distress and grabbed his arms and helped him into their home, three children stood infront of a log burning stove eyes wide to this man who had just entered and been sat on a chair in their kitchen, his face all cuts, grazes and bruised from his fall, trademark 'combe over' hanging to one side and clothing torn form the bramble.
As they tended to his injuries they listened to what he had to say, what chance of coming upon the only family on the mountain who spoke English, she being of New Zealand origin and he being a refugee to there via El Shat, Egypt during WW2 and both insisting that their children were taught it in school.
Cleaned up, fed and watered Wilf wondered if he could get a lift off the mountain in their little Suzuki van he had seen at the foot of the steps but they explained that the brakes weren't to good and anyway the lights didn't work, making it to dangerous for them to drive the gravel track back to town.
  They would get him down at first light and back to his hotel where Margaret, Wilfs wife would be wondering where he had been all night. They offered him a bed for the night, the two girls, daughters Marija and Lisa could share and he could have Marija's room. Ivan, their son, would help the girls take the goats, sheep and cows out to graze in the morning.
Morning came, Wilf woke, he thought he hurt the night previous but that was nothing, this was agony, he couldn't move, slowly, limb by limb he got things going, sliding to the edge of the bed he tried to sit up, three attempts later he had his feet on the ground.
   He dressed, just shorts and T shirt, looking at the bruises and grazes on his legs made him remember the night before, he trembled, “blumming heck” he said. Even at a time like this it was as near as he would get to swearing and stood up. “BLUMMING HECK” he shouted, he was dizzy and hurting “everywhere.”
The door snapped open, Ned and Sharon stood there, no children in sight, they had gone off to school in Viganj and no doubt telling their friends about the 'wildman' who appeared in their kitchen lastnight.
It was 11am and Ned had told Sharon to let Wilf sleep, he would be all the better for it. He ate a simple breakfast of bread and honey and they set off in the little Suzuki down the winding road to Viganj passing through and on the road to Orebic. The views were as amazing as he remembered before it started going dark last night. He soon forgot about the views as he watched Ned crash the Suzuki down through the gears and use the handbrake to slow down for the barrierless hairpin bends, “Blumming Heck” he thought “I bet his kids are glad of the schoolbus picking them up”. They reached the bottom, he wouldn't of said 'safely' but without incident.
On the road through Viganj, which was singletrack and snaked along the shoreline, Sharon asked “which hotel he was staying at”
Wilf couldn't remember, that was Margarets job sorting the hotels and holidays out, he just went wherever she chose and made the best of what he found when he got there, he had left yesterday morning noting it was “ a big white one surrounded by pine trees”
“There all big white ones surrounded by pine trees” said Sharon “but theres only three hotels in Orebic and we'll be able to tell which is yours by the mad English woman pacing reception wondering where her husband is”
Sure enough at the second stop there she was talking to two local Policemen who were asking where her husband had “gone to” after being reported missing by the night staff of the hotel, this was afterall Tito's Yugoslavia where every outsider was treated with suspicion if they did not return back to their rooms.
“Where the ******* hell have you been this time” she shouted at Wilf over the Policemens shoulders, it wasn't the first time he'd gone missing (but they, yes there's more than one, are another few dozen tales to be told) but then she saw his injuries and her mood changed, she didn't want to see him hurting and add to this.
“I want you to meet Ned and Sharon” ever the gentleman and introducing his hosts of the night before. Wilf brushed aside his pain and started doing his best to explain to Margaret and the two listening Policemen, being translated to by Sharon, what had happened to him the previous evening.
The police wanted to interview Wilf further and made an 'appointment' (read 'order') for him the next day at twelve o clock. Sharon was to come as translator and they 'should not be late' and made their exit.
The two couples sat and talked about what had happened, all four realising Wilf had been 'very very lucky' Ned explained it was pointless going to look for Wilfs lost equipment ( he now knew the binoculars Margaret had bought him were missing to but didn't dare add these to the list) as neither of them could fathom out just where he had fallen.
They arranged to meet the next day and Wilf and Margaret would collect them in a 'hire car' from Nakovana, the village where they lived at 11am, then after the Police interview would treat them to a meal to help repay the kindness they had shown Wilf. (the 'hire car' being the postmans Lada being aquired for the day 'for a few hundred Kuna')
When they got to Nakovana at 10am Wilf wanted to have a look around and left Margaret to climb the steps to the house. What he found was a completely deserted settlement not another occupied  house apart from Ned and Sharons. What had, happened to cause this? It looked like whoever lived here had left in a hurry, there were still possetions left in some properties, not that he entered any but could see thro open doors and windows.
He heared Margaret call his name, “blumming heck” how long had he been? He found his way to the house, remembering how much it had hurt to get down the steps the previous morning. In he went and found them all stood waiting, ready to go, “we don't want to be late or the Police will come looking for us” said Ned. Wilf looked at the table and saw a feast had been prepaired and asked “who it was for” “Sharon wouldn't have us spend our money on them when she could make a meal herself” said Margaret “and were all coming back up here when the police have finished”
Two and a half hours later the police said “OK, you go” and that  Wilf had to report to the hotel desk every evening a 7pm and then they would 'report him in'
Back out into the sunshine to return Posties car, but one more favour from him, return them all to Nakovana for another 'hundred Kuna' and his services would be done. “How will we get back to the hotel” asked Margaret “in time for Wilf to report in” “ I will show you the 'Old track' said Ned “it is a good short cut and will only take an hour to walk down”
To say that Margaret and Wilf enjoyed the afternoon meal with Ned and Sharon, which started as soon a the children got home from school and all the animals were fed and chores were done is an understatement, all the food was 'homegrown' all the meat from their own stock all the vegatables grown in their own gardens, the bread from their own wheat grown in the fields around their house, the wine, red or white, from grapes off their own vines and 'Brandy' as Ned called it from his own still.
The children now seeing Wilf in a different view took to him and 'Auntie Margaret' instantly and made a fuss of them both, wanting to put more and more meat on Wilfs plate and more wine in 'Auntie Margarets' glass. A fantastic time was had but soon it was time to leave, Ned not wanting it to be to late for the '7pm appointment'
Hugs, kisses and promises of meeting again followed and with tears of joy in everyones eyes they left, Ned showing them to the top of the 'Old track' as promised. The walk down was suprisingly easy compaired to the rugged tracks Wilf had been on before and Margaret revelled in the views across the water to the island of Korcula.
She mentioned that Wilf certainly knew how to “pack things into his holidays” this only being day three and that she felt that something 'special' was taking place, she explained that when she booked to go to Yugoslavia it was for July and to Dubrovnik, the travel agent had called four days before they were due to leave and said there had been a mistake and the holiday was overbooked. Did she want to travel to another destination or wait another month and travel to Dubrovnik, the same holiday just a month later.
After a phone call to their employer, both worked for 'Rolls Royce' and finding out she could change their 'two weeks' Margaret rang the travel agent back saying “they would go to Dubrovnik a month later” after guaranteeing there would be “no problems this time”, we have to remember this was before computers and everything done by telephone and letter.
Their date for flying came and they got to Cipili airport safely, only to find from the tour rep that the hotel in Dubrovnik was being used by Tito's soldiers as a base, they had turned up the day before   ordered everyone out and that was it until further notice. The tour guides had to use every bit of existing accomodation available in Dubrovnik for the ousted guest and any other arrivals coached off to other resorts.
Knowing that Wilf didn't have a clue as to where he was meant to be staying and didn't even know about the first cancallation   Margaret didn't think it was worth letting him know things had changed again, she pushed him towards their coach packed the cases on climbed aboard and set off, to a destination she had never heard of, Orebic!!!
They arrived at 8-30 am, put the cases in the room, went down to breakfast, back to the room for Wilf to collect his walking gear and he set off to 'explore the area' leaving Margaret to sort their clothing and get herself ready for her well earned rest.
Margaret knew Wilf would be gone for hours and hoped he would find a tourist office or shop to buy a map to help him find his way back to the 'Hotel Orson' which she thought would be their base for the next two weeks. Things didn't turn out just as she planned did they.
“Something Special Was Happening”
They reached the hotel in good time and Wilf booked in, they skipped dinner and went to the bar for a drink telling a group of people who were curious know about the Police talking to them the previous morning everthing that had happened. The group thought they were so 'lucky' getting to know some locals so soon as in those days you didn't mix with Tito's people and wanted to be kept informed of any further involvements.
Next morning Wilf was up and out before Margaret was awake, no note left or destination given. She was used to his bed being empty before she woke, she just hoped (again) that he had taken enough with him to see him through the day. What she didn't know was he was stood by the road waiting for the school bus going to Nakovana to pick Neds and Sharons children up. This was flagged down and he climbed on trying to explain to the protesting driver he just wanted a lift to “Neds”
Off it went, Wilf excitedly talking all the time to a baffled busdriver not understanding a word of english about his new family in Nirvana. The scenery more and more breathtaking every time they rounded a corner, on arrival the children were surprised to see 'Wilf' get off (he was just Wilf, not 'uncle' ) and the girls gave him hugs whilst Ivan gave him a formal handshake.
Off they went to school, off he went to his 'Nirvana' and found Ned hand milking a cow, “I always wanted to have go at that” said Wilf “but being in engineering theres never been much chance” Ned climbed from his stool and gave him 'his chance' “ I find it difficult” Wilf commented and showed Ned his index finger, half of which was missing, Ned showed Wilf his index finger, half was missing.
This was the first of many coincidenses they found out about each other over the next 10 days, Wilf catching the schoolbus and walking down the 'Old track' every day sometimes taking Margaret if she was awake before he left, but always making sure his 7pm was met.
Two weeks was over and Wilf made plans to return to Ned and Sharons and took Margaret to say fairwell in Posties Lada. Tears of sadness this time, but the relationship wasn't over. As hard as it was to leave Wilf knew they would be back.
Back in Clitheroe on the saturday he was sat in the travel agents office the same day finding out when he and Margaret could go back to Nirvana (Nakovana) and was dissapointed to find that the holiday season didn't start until mid May the following year, he had never booked or been involved in booking a holiday in his life always leaving it to Margaret, this time was different, he had a mission.
The following May came and back to Orebic, back to the postie, who had up graded to a white VW Golf 1600 turbo diesel, a 'few hundred Kunas' later they were on their way. “Nirvana here we come” he shouted in excitement. Ned and Sharon knew nothing of their return and wept uncontrollably on seeing them climb the steps to the terrace, children too, Auntie Margaret and Wilf had been writing to them all winter and sending them presents of warm clothes and toys for christmas.
A day was spent in each others company, Margaret helping Sharon with the baking, both of whom had worked in bakers shops in their younger days (another coincidence?) and Wilf following Ned around doing 'little jobs' that kept the place running. The children grazed the animals and when they were safely back inside out of the heat of the sun took Wilf to all their 'special places' around Nirvana whilst Margaret, Ned and Sharon had their siesta, Margaret on the back terrace in Neds fishermans chair, still in use today.
Another two weeks spent together and even more than time before, no curfew this time and if they got Ned to explain to the police that the 'tourists' would be their guest they could stop at Nirvana overnight.
The time was soon past and farewells said. Another wonderful time spent with their new family and the stories to relate back to their own family and friends back in Clitheroe
But Wilf had been plotting, If he couldn't get a package holiday before mid May he would drive to Nirvana, he had liked Posties VW Golf so much he had to find one and did so on a car lot 15 miles from Clitheroe, an ex soldiers car, who was based in Germany it had done the drive there twice and was serviced/looked after by the army, purchased as a three year old when the soldier wanted to upgrade.
His planning continued, if he worked weekends at Rolls and took 'time off in lieu' instead of his overtime rate he could amass an extra 4 weeks holiday a year. With his holiday entitlement being april to april he could take all of March off, this was discussed with Margaret and his employers and they all agreed, Margaret not wanting to use her holidays so early in the year but not standing in Wilfs way for his.
The  VW was loaded with anything they thought would come in useful for Ned, Sharon and the children, warm clothes, wellies, seeds, toys, anything mostly bought from charity shops over the winter months. Then he was off, his route planned in a road atlas, down to Dover, across to Belgium, Holland into Germany then Austria and then cross the border into Yugoslavia then follow the coast road down to Ston, how easy could it be.
This was the first of many journeys to Nirvana Wilf was to take, often twice a year, warm clothes and wellies for winter, seeds and shorts for summer, anything to help them live their self sufficient lives. Then when electricity was supplied to the village in the late eighties a television and microwave oven made the journey. How he got these things across the border into Yugoslavia is known only to himself.
Then disaster, the 'Yugoslavian Wars' broke out, he had heard Ned talking of unrest on his last visit, but now it had happened he could not believe it. Hurried letters were written and responses impatiently waited for. “Please do not travel, it is far to dangerous” Ned would reply, “We are all safe in Nakovana” but Marija now at University in Zagreb was a worry for them. They watched news reports on Tv of the shelling of the city, but made contact every evening with their daughter by driving to Viganj and using a telephone in a friends house.
Four long years passed, Wilf and Margaret could only send letters to the family, but each member got their own personal one.
Then it was to much for Wilf, he had to go. Months of taking no notice of any advice given about his trip were forgotten, we had to be positive. Contact with Embassies was made, all advising against travel, but if he had to go it would be easier to travel through Italy into the new state of Slovenia and down into Croatia and travel with a UN convoy down the coast road. The car packed he was on his way.
When he got to the border into Croatia and joined up with the UN to travel south the soldiers joked with him about being an 'easy target' what with them being in armoured, camoflaged trucks and he being in a white VW he might stand out a little. They offered to paint a 'Red Cross' on his roof, this was turned down by Wilf as “cheating”
The journey made to Ston he left the convoy to travel back north on the Peljesac Peninsula to Nakovana. Stunned by the destruction he had seen on his way south he was surprised to see that little artillery damage had been made here, houses had been fled, some burnt out, probably belonging to Serb or Bosnian families who had gone to their own countries after the 'Ethnic Cleansing' process was carried out.
At last, Nirvana. Ned had waited days for his arrival, having no news of his friend had been unbearable and a suitable party ensued.
During the period of the war 1991-1995 Wilf had retired from Rolls Royce and this had given him more time than ever to spend in Nirvana and Bi-annual trips were made for the next ten years often taking old workmates and friends with him. Also fitting in regular trips to the continent with Trevor following the Mountainbike World Cup  series from country to country.  Then in 2002 when he reached 75 his motor insurance company told him that they could not cover him for continental travel, we searched the net for another company and found one, but with a ridiculously high premiun. “What did that matter” said Wilf “I would pay ten thousand pounds” The cover was taken.
Wilf continued his travels until 2005 when he was diagnosed with cancer, having never had an illness in his life apart from his annual bout of 'Wilf Flu' he was detrmined to get through this, during his treatment he would let everyone in the waiting room go before him saying “Get these young ones sorted out before me, they have their whole lives in front of them” What a man!!
He fought his own battle for two years before receiving the news we had all wanted to hear, “We cannot be more certain Mr Bennett that it is all clear” Wonderful.
Could he now plan another trip to Nirvana? Would Trevor chaperon him? But before he could make any more decisions his world was toppled over again. At one of his regular check ups he was told that the cancer had returned, this time spreading to several major organs of his body, just ten weeks after being given the all clear his life was taken.
Wilfred Bennett 1927-2008 RIP
Not only did he touch and hold the hearts of his families at home and in Nirvana, everyone that met Wilf new they had met somone 'Special'
Tributes poured in from all over, and during his funeral wake it was mentioned how sad it was that Ned, Sharon and the children, now grown ups, never got to see him in the two years prior to his death.
Margaret, sad that she may never get to see Wilfs Nirvana after her loss was doing her own plotting. She and Trevor would follow the route in Wilfs  road atlas and make the journey themselves and spend the latter part of September with Ned and Sharon.
This is how I got introduced to the 'Special Place' and have returned three times, falling more and more for its beauty.
After my last visit I was given an opportunity I could not refuse. The use of a two storey house and its grounds to develope into accomodation and an Auto Camp for travellers.
This will be done in the memory of one of the areas greatest admirers, keeping him in contact with Nirvana for generations to come. We love you Wilf.
We will try to have the place up and running by April 2011 and will spend as much time there as possible during the summer, I have already done a bit of 'Exploring the Area' and have found that is Ideal for MTB, Cyling, Hiking and Walking. We will need to cover the costs of running the house but will keep our prices to a  minimum.
It is our chance to let you all see what made this place so special to Wilf and it is Neds tribute to him that we are able to do it.
We will need help along the way to renovate the house but anyone offering their services will receive free accomodation for the year after. The more work you do the more time you get free.

Just remember one thing.
Where there's a Wilf there's a way